For one week life in Seville revolves around this fiesta. The music, food, dancing and general joy create a very special atmosphere.
From Apr 20, 2010 to Apr 25, 2010
The April Fair is one of the most international and popular of Seville’s fiestas. It was created in 1847 as a cattle fair, and over time the festive atmosphere that had grown up around the occasion took over the business aspect, and it became a permanent fixture in Seville’s social calendar. For a week more than a thousand “casetas” or tents installed in the fairground area become the second home of the city’s inhabitants, a place where people come together to have fun and share experiences until the early hours of the morning.
The fiesta officially begins at midnight on Monday with the “lighting test”, the illumination of the thousands of multi-coloured light bulbs in the fairground and adorning the main gateway, which is almost 50 metres high and has a different motif every year. Once inside the gate you come to the “casetas”, and it is here where you really experience the fair. These tents belong to groups of friends and associates, and are a family space where acquaintances, relations and guests are welcomed in and plied with delicious food and wine; there is singing, good conversation and of course, "sevillanas", the local version of flamenco dancing. The lively and festive atmosphere spills over into the area outside the tents: people usually dance in the street, and the friendly personality of the Sevillian people will entice passers-by into the celebration. You should bear in mind that most of the stalls are privately owned and can be entered only by invitation from the members or their friends. There are however public tents which are open to all. The information office at the entrance to the fair will tell you which they are.
Photo: La voz de Utrera
Throughout the fair, people wear typical Andalusian dress: the men wear the typical outfit of the farmworker, and the women wear flamenco or gypsy dresses. By day the fair is filled with horsewomen, riders and richly festooned carriages. This is what is known as the horse and carriage parade, in which you can take part by renting a buggy with a driver from the regular service. Next to the fairground is the Calle del Infierno (Hell’s Street), a lively recreational area with a host of attractions for children and adults, and stands selling cold drinks and snacks. Another vital component is the bullfight: every afternoon people crowd into the Plaza de la Maestranza bullring to see the day’s bullfight (tickets and passes can be bought in advance by telephone or on the Maestranza bullring’s own website). And after a week of merrymaking there is a spectacular fireworks display at midnight on Sunday to send off the April Fair for another year.
This Spanish spice, once hard to find, is rapidly becoming a kitchen staple.
Photo: kostika, Flickr Think regular paprika after a night at the campfire. Made from peppers that are smoked over wood, this condiment lends haunting smokiness to anything it touches. Add some to your next deviled egg recipe; use it to replace the smokiness of bacon or pancetta in a fish chowder; or add to a spice rub to lavish on grilled chicken, beef or fish. You can find smoked paprika in most supermarkets.
Ingredients for 4 people: 1 octopus of about 2kg 1 onion 2dl of olive oil 2l of water 1 spoonful of sweet paprika 1 spoonful of hot paprika coarse salt
Preparation
Clean the octopus, remove the ink sac, the beak it has between the tentacles and empty the head. Beat it with a mallet and wash it in plenty of water. Put the octopus into a tall pan with boiling water and the onion, then take it out, with the help of a skewer, three times, just to scald it. Put it back in and continue cooking until it is tender. The time depends on the quality of the octopus. Take it out of the water with the skewer carefully so the skin does not disintegrate. Dry and cut the octopus with scissors into 2 or 3 centimetre pieces. Put the hot octopus on to wooden plates. Season with salt and sprinkle with the two kinds of paprika and the olive oil.
Ingredients for 4 people: 250 g of chickpeas, 300 g of beef black pudding, ¼ of chicken, 100 g of streaky bacon, 100 g of black pudding with onion, 100 g of spicy sausage, 50 g of cured ham end, 4 marrow bones around 5 cm, long 1 kg of cabbage, 4 medium potatoes, 2 carrots, 1 onion, 1 turnip, 1 clove of garlic, olive oil for browning, 100 g of stick noodles for the soup Salt. For the mix: 2 eggs, 75 g of breadcrumbs 2 cloves of garlic, 2 tsp of finely-chopped parsley, olive oil, salt.
Preparation
Soak the chickpeas overnight in warm water with a little salt. Next day, remove and drain them. Place the meat, bacon, washed bones and the ham in a wide-based earthenware dish, and cover with around 4 litres of water. Put the dish on the flame and when it comes to the boil, any scum will rise to the surface. Remove it with a spoon for skimming and add the chickpeas. When it reaches boiling point again, add the carrot, onion and the turnip. Cook on a low flame for three hours or more, until the chickpeas are tender. Twenty minutes before the end, add the peeled and halved potatoes.Add salt to taste. At the same time, cook the finely chopped cabbage in another pot for half an hour. Drain and gently fry it with the garlic. Cook the spicy sausage and the black pudding in a separate pan so that they do not stain the broth. Mix: Beat the eggs and mix them together with the breadcrumbs, very finely-chopped garlic, parsley and a little salt. With two spoons, form kind of squashed croquette shapes and fry them in plenty of very hot oil. It is not necessary to add flour or coat them in egg as the mix will hold without breaking. When the cocido is about to be served, add them to the broth and bring to the boil.
Presentation
Madrid cocido is said to be eaten in three stages. First, the soup is served with the noodles (which have to be cooked in the broth for 5 minutes). Then come the chickpeas in a serving dish with the vegetables: the sautéed cabbage, the carrot and the turnip in slices (around 2 cm).Add the onion to the broth to give it flavour, but then remove it. It is also accompanied by the mix and, in a gravy boat, peeled, chopped and fried tomato. The third stage consists of the pieces of meat, pork, bacon and the marrow bones. The marrow spread on toast is delicious.
The Alhambra is a beautiful complex of buildings and gardens. Its leafy tree-lined walkways provide pleasant shade and coolness, enhanced by the abundance of water that flows in its streams.
It was the largest political and aristocratic centre of the Moslem West. The Palace premises are made up of beautiful rectangular courtyards and numerous fountains, as well as the Nasrid buildings that served as living quarters for the monarchs and their servants. The oldest building is the Alcazaba (citadel). One of the most important structures is the La Vela tower, which offers one of the loveliest views of the Alhambra. The courtyard of the Lions with its fountains is one of the most beautiful in the compound.
Practical infoConstruction: Palace Origin: 9th century Artistic period: Arab Historic period: 14th century
Useful informationCombined visit to the Alhambra and the Generalife. Day visits: 1 March to 31 October, daily: 8:30am-8pm. 1 November to 28 February, daily: 8:30am-6pm. Night visits: 1 March to 31 October, Tuesday-Saturday: 9:30-11:30pm. 1 November to 28 February, Fridays and Saturdays: 7:30-9:30pm. Gardens: 1 March to 31 October: 8:30am-8pm. 1 November to 28 February: 8:30am-6pm. Closed: 1, 2 and 6 January, 1 May and 24, 25 and 31 December.
Everything in this building is curved and undulating. Its originality and the techniques used in its construction are surprising throughout.
This is one of the best-known works of the architect Gaudí, and is one of the symbols of Barcelona. It was built between 1906 and 1912, and consists of a succession of stone walls on the outside, while the interior has two painted courtyards, columns and a range of rooms. There are large windows and iron balconies set into the undulating façade. On the roof, meanwhile, there are chimneys and sculptures which are works of art in themselves, as well as a splendid view of the Paseo de Gràcia avenue. The building has been declared a World Heritage, and is the pinnacle of Modernist techniques and tendencies.
Practical infoConstruction: Residence Artistic period: Modernism Historic period: 20th Century
There are different ways of doing the Way of Saint James: on foot, by bike, on horseback… However you choose to travel, you'll be able to discover all the cultural and natural riches Spain has to offer. Select your favourite mode of transport and enjoy this experience in the way you like most. Below are some recommendations to make your journey more comfortable.
If you're travelling on foot…- A rucksack is essential. One with a 40-litre capacity, the anatomical kind, is enough. A hip-belt is a good idea so the weight is more comfortable to carry. It should also have compartments and side pockets so you don't have to take everything out when you're looking for something.
- As for weight, the overriding rule is “less is more”. Your rucksack should never weigh more than 7 kilos, or 10% of your weight. Remember how many footsteps and how many kilometres you're going to have to carry it on your back until you reach Santiago de Compostela. Don't succumb to the temptation to take things "just in case", as you'll find supermarkets, chemists, and a whole range of shops all along the route where you can pick up everything you need.
- A sleeping bag, rain cape and mat are essential equipment. Don't forget your personal documents (ID card, passport or any other identifying document, and your medical card) and a basic first-aid kit. Remember to take a water bottle, and in addition to your sponge bag, a towel, soap powder for washing clothes, and clothes pegs.
- Footwear is another key feature. It's best to use water-resistant mountain boots which adapt well to the shape of your foot (you should use half a size larger that your normal shoe size), well broken-in if possible. If they're new, try to get in some training with them at home before setting out.
- Wear cotton socks always dry and put them on carefully to avoid chafing and blisters. A good way to prevent this is to put Vaseline on your feet. Take a pair of flip-flops for the shower and to give your feet a bit of a rest at the end of each stage.
If you're travelling by bike…- Bear in mind that there are sections and stages with variants for anyone doing the Way by bike. Some of these follow the main roads. They are usually well signposted, although you'll also find them described in specific guides.
- If you can choose, the best thing is a mountain bike. Before setting out, it's a good idea to do a bit of training, as it's not at all the same thing pedalling along while carrying saddle bags with all your luggage, as without them.
- Don't forget to give your bike a tune-up, and make sure to check particularly the brakes, gears and wheels. A helmet, cycling gear, waterproof, gloves and suitable footwear are essential equipment. And remember to pack a puncture kit and some tools for any possible breakdowns.
- If you're sleeping in pilgrims' hostels, head for the ones with the greatest capacity, as until 8 pm pilgrims travelling on foot have priority.
- Once in Santiago de Compostela, there's a Left Luggage service for rucksacks and bikes at the Pilgrims' Office (Rúa do Vilar).
If you're travelling on horseback…- Doing the Way on horseback requires more preparation. As well as getting your horse used to carrying loads, you'll also need to take the animal to the vet for its vaccinations, and to take out some insurance.
- It's a good idea to reserve places for your horse to stay overnight and to prepare the sacks of feed it'll need along the route.
- The local police need to be given several days' advance notice if you're entering Santiago de Compostela on horseback (tel. 092), so they can tell you what time to come and the route you have to take. They'll also issue a permit allowing you to enter the Plaza del Obradoiro square, and to stay in front of the Cathedral for a limited period of time.
Accommodation on the Way
You'll find a whole range of different kinds of accommodation to choose from all along the route, according to your needs and preferences: pilgrims' hostels, rural lodgings, hotels, Parador hotels, guesthouses, campsites…
• Pilgrims' hostels
- There are public hostels which are free, and others where you're required to pay a small donation to cover the costs of cleaning and maintenance. There are also private hostels which cost a little more. The public hostels are usually the first to fill up.
- At times when the Way is very busy, for example in the summer months and in Jacobean years, other spaces such as sports centres, churches etc. are sometimes called into service to accommodate pilgrims overnight if everything is full.
- Places in hostels can't be reserved; they're allotted to pilgrims strictly on a first-come, first-serve basis. Foot pilgrims have priority, then those on horseback and then cyclists.
- You can only spend one night in each hostel, except in the case of illness. They usually open at midday, and after 9 or 10 in the evening there is a "rule of silence", when no noise is permitted so people can get some rest. In the morning you have to be out by 8 or 9 to allow time for the staff prepare to receive the day's pilgrims. In some hostels, breakfast is included.
• Other accommodation
- All along the route, you'll find a range of different possibilities in the various towns and villages you pass through. You can choose from the family-style welcome you'll find in the rural lodges, to the charm of sleeping in genuine restored historic buildings, as is the case of the Parador hotels in León and Santiago de Compostela.
- This is the best option when you feel like staying on for a few days to explore a particular spot that has caught your attention, when you want to enjoy one of the local festivities, or simply to make a stop on your route.
- It's also a good idea to choose an option other than the pilgrims' hostels if you're travelling with a support car or with a large group.
Other things you need to know…
• Stages
- The established stages for foot pilgrims generally consist of stretches of between 20 and 30 kilometres a day; and between 60 and 70 kilometres for cyclists. However, everyone can plan their route according to their age, pace or physical condition, making the stages longer or shorter as they wish.
• Signposting
- Always follow the yellow arrows. Keep your eyes open, as you'll find them all in a variety of places: on walls, on the ground, on trees, stones, posts, etc… If you ever get lost or can't make out which way to go, just ask. There will always be someone happy to point you in the right direction.
• Food
- It's a good idea to start the day with a hearty breakfast. Sweets or dried fruit and nuts are ideal for a quick energy fix along the route. Remember to drink lots of water while on the road, even if you don't feel thirsty. You'll find plenty of drinking fountains along the way where you can fill your water bottle or flask.
- And for lunch and dinner, there are all kinds of restaurants, cafés and bars where you can get your strength up again, as well as sampling the typical gastronomy of each area. Some places also offer a “pilgrim's menu ” at a reasonable price.
• Clothing
- Dress according to the time of year. From spring to autumn is a good time to do the Way, always bearing in mind that July and August are the hottest months, and the time when you're likely to find the most people.
- Make sure you take comfortable clothing which breathes. Take a sweater or something warm for the nights, and a hat and some sun cream to protect yourself from the sun.
• "Passport"
- You show your "passport" (or "credencial") when you stay in the pilgrim's hostels. You can acquire it in the hostel where you start out on the Way; or else at the associations of Friends of the Way (Amigos del Camino) before you start your journey.
- The "passport" is not the same as the “Compostela”: this is granted to pilgrims who are travelling for religious or spiritual reasons and who have done at least the last 100 kilometres to Santiago on foot or on horseback, or the last 200 kilometres by bike, as a general rule.
Practical infoConstruction: Palace
