In Spain there is a saying, "Aceite de oliva, todo mal quita" - olive oil makes all pain go away. Attesting to the inextricable link between this most revered food and its culture, Spain has for centuries recognized the many virtues of olive oil, particularly its healthgiving properties. Long a staple of the Mediterranean diet, research continues to prove that olive oil contains nutrients which promote good health and help prevent disease. This is significant for anyone who wants to eat healthy but particularly so for those who need to follow a heart healthy diet. And if food is your life, finding foods that are both flavorful and healthy is essential – at least, this has been my experience.
A Personal Journey
Call it decadent but "I live to eat." I suspect it's because both my parents were wonderful cooks and instilled in me a love and respect for food and cooking. My childhood was spent blissfully going from one meal to the next. Not surprisingly, cooking and the enjoyment of food became a central part of my life.
I've worked in the food industry for over 20 years and during that time have worn many hats including food writer, stylist and teacher. For 12 years I worked at the Food Network, first as its Culinary Director and then as a Senior Producer. So as you can see, food and the business of food have been an integral part of my life. It's been an amazing ride full of challenges and excitement. Little did I know my biggest challenge was yet to come.
In February 2006 during a routine stress test it was discovered that my heart was not functioning normally. After further tests I was told one of the main arteries to my heart was blocked – 85% blocked! Through a simple hospital procedure a stent was inserted in the artery to keep it open and I was sent home. But my life as I knew it changed from the perspective of one who lives to eat to one who now has to eat "carefully" to live.
The Power of Choice
It's all very simple. It's been proven that what we eat has a direct impact on our health. Making wise food choices contributes to good health. Conversely, making poor choices endangers our health. Because we have the power to choose what we eat, we can control, reduce, or even prevent many illnesses, including heart disease. Scientific studies have shown that by eating heart healthy foods we can slow the progression of heart disease and even reverse many of its effects. After pouring through countless heart healthy cookbooks and researching low-fat diets, I found the Mediterranean Diet to be the most appealing.
Olive Oil – The Cornerstone of the Mediterranean Diet
The Mediterranean diet recommends generous amounts of fruits and vegetables, whole grains, and fish with limited amounts of nuts, seeds and red meat. But the cornerstone of the Mediterranean diet is olive oil. The diet's aim is not to limit total fat consumption, but to make wise choices in the types of fats we eat.
Not All Fats Are Equal
There are three varieties of fats: saturated, polyunsaturated, and monounsaturated. Saturated fats are contained in meats, butter and other animal-based foods and are a major contributor to the formation of plaque that clogs our arteries. Polyunsaturated fats, derived primarily from plants, fall into the "in between" category. While they are good because they reduce bad LDL cholesterol, they are bad because at the same time they also reduce good HDL cholesterol. Examples of polyunsaturated fats are safflower, sunflower and corn oils. Olive oil, on the other hand, is packed with monounsaturated fats and monos are heart healthy. In fact, no other naturally produced oil has as large an amount of monounsaturated fats, mainly oleic acid, as olive oil. Monounsaturated fats reduce the amount of bad LDL cholesterol while strengthening and raising levels of good HDL cholesterol.
Olive Oil's Unique Health-Giving Qualities
It's not surprising that olive oil is considered one of nature's healing wonders. It is unique in that it can be consumed in its natural state, pure and unadulterated, without processing. When eaten in this way its vitamins, aroma and taste are preserved. In fact, it is the only vegetable oil that can be eaten freshly pressed from the fruit. Along with keeping our hearts healthy, studies indicate it also may reduce the risk of certain cancers, such as colon, prostate and skin cancer. In addition, freshly pressed olive oil contains some of the same properties as the anti-inflammatory ibuprofen.
The reason I extol the virtues of olive oil is not just because it's good for me, it's because it tastes so great! And, as anyone on a low-fat diet will attest, good tasting, satisfying food is essential. And, because it's so flavorful, a little bit goes a long way. At 120 calories per tablespoon, that's an important factor. While olive oil has proven to be the better choice where fats are concerned, not all olive oils are equally beneficial to health.
Extra Virgin Olive Oil – Nature's Healer
High quality extra virgin olive oil that comes from the first pressing of the olive, extracted without using heat or chemicals, contains higher levels of antioxidants, particularly vitamin E and phenols, because it is less processed. The less the olive oil is handled, the closer to its natural state, the healthier the oil. In determining the flavor and quality of olive oil, it is tremendously helpful if you understand how it is processed and the standards used in determining its denomination. On a recent visit to the Andalusian Province of Jaén I witnessed first-hand how some of the world's most sublime olive oils are created.
The Olive Oils of Jaén
Imagine a landscape of sierras, open countryside and fertile, lowland areas carpeted with 60 millions olive trees and you will only partially envision the inland paradise of Jaén. Olive trees have taken deep root in this Andalusian province, some dating back to antiquity. Spain is the largest producer and exporter of olive oil in the world and Jaén is at the head of its national production. It is unquestionably the most important olive growing region in Spain and it is here where you can find exquisite olive oils renowned for their depth of flavor. Equally important to taste, ninety-five percent of the extra virgin olive oils produced in Jaén are made from the Picual olive which has the highest content of oleic acid.
In ancient times mills had granite stones to grind the olives into a paste. The paste was then spread on round mats made of mat weed and iron hydraulic presses were used to compress the paste and extract the oil. The paste was subjected to increasingly high pressures with subsequent degradation in the flavor of the oil. Today, the oil is extracted by a more efficient and hygienic system of continuous centrifugal presses.
Flavorful extra virgin olive oil rich in healthy antioxidants is not easy to find. Some of the best is produced on family owned estates where careful handling and processing are used to insure the continued high quality of the oils. A highlight of my trip to Jaén was a visit to the Monva estate.
"Cortijo Virgen de los Milagros", the Monva estate, is located in the foothills of the Sierra Mágina in Jaén. The family has been making olive oil in this region for over two centuries, continuing a practice brought to the area by the Romans. Monva is one of the world's largest producers of extra virgin olive oil made from estate grown olives. Its labels proudly display the D.O. qualification. To ensure quality, the entire process is carried out on its own property under careful supervision. Its olive oil is cultivated with adherence to past traditions while keeping abreast of modern technology and respect for preserving the environment. The estate's groves of olive trees are cultivated with restricted use of pesticides. During the harvest season the olives are shaken off the trees onto tarps, preventing contact with the ground and possible damage to the fruit. To prevent spoilage the fruit is transported quickly to the processing plant where the olives are pressed by purely mechanical means (no chemicals added). The resulting oil is stored in stainless steel tanks at optimum controlled temperatures.
Jaén's Guarantee of Quality
"Sierra Mágina, Denominación de Origen" is one of the premier Spanish D.O.s for production of extra virgin olive oils. The Regulating Council, an institution created in 1995, guarantees the quality of the oils carrying its seal. These extra virgin olive oils are obtained mostly from the Picual olive, their acidity levels don't exceed 0.5 percent and they are rich in oleic acid, polyphenols and vitamin E (oleic acid is a monounsaturated omega-9 fatty acid found in some vegetable sources and animal products). There are subtle differences in flavor but in general the olive oils are pleasantly fragrant and have a fruity taste with an appealing slightly bitter aftertaste. The color of the oil ranges from green to golden yellow. To my mind these oils are superb in every way.
Understanding Labels:
Extra virgin olive oil (EVOO by Rachael Ray and EVOOS by chef José Andres, the "S" for Spain) is the unadulterated juice of the olive. It comes from the first pressing, produced mechanically by washing, decanting, centrifuging, and filtering. No chemicals or heat are used in this process. To be classified as EVOO, it must have an acidity of less than 0.8 percent (it contains less than 0.8 gr. of free fatty acids per 100 gr. of olive oil). After that, EVOO is also judged for its taste and aroma (organoleptic characteristics), which need to be superior or excellent. This is controlled by the producers following European Union regulations and laws, and also by aleatory tests carried out by official bodies and by Spain's customs official body. Tasting olive oil is very similar to wine tasting, many factors like the soil, the climate, the olive varietal and the ripeness at harvest are key. In addition, EVOO possesses the most vitamin E content.
Virgin Olive Oil is equal to EVOO but with an acidity that ranges from 0.8 percent to 2 percent. The organoleptic characteristics are not superior as in EVOO. For example, we can find an EVOO (with less that 0.8 percent acidity) with organoleptic defects, that would classify it as virgin olive oil. In both cases, EVOO and virgin olive oil are first cold pressed and produced by mechanical means only (no heat or chemicals).
Olive Oil is directly below EVOO and virgin olive oil. It is a blend of refined olive oil (physical and chemical processed) with 15 to 25 percent of virgin olive oil or EVOO, added to it. The producer determines the percentage and varies in different brands.
By law, all olive oils produced in the European Union (EU), can only contain olive oil and, they can never be blended with another vegetable oil.
"Pure" Olive Oil is a blend of refined olive oil (it has undergone some physical and chemical processing) with 15 to 25 percent of virgin olive oil or EVOO added to it. The term "pure" has been traditionally used in the US, but it is actually the same as "olive oil".
Extra Light Olive Oil (light in taste, not in calories) is not truly a classification of olive oil grades. It is unregulated by any certification organization and has no real precedent as to what its content should be. It tastes more like bland vegetable oil and it is also a blend of refined olive oil and a little bit of EVOO or virgin olive oil to give that "light" taste.
Olive Oil Tips:
- Light and heat are the enemies of olive oil. Keep olive oil in a cool, dark place, tightly sealed. It goes without saying to never purchase any oil that's been displayed in direct sunlight.
- It's best to purchase olive oil in opaque or dark bottles to prevent damage from light.
- Refrain from purchasing large quantities at a time. Buy what you can consume within 6 months. Do as I say, not as I do. I carted home liters from Jaén. But, here's the thing, pure, unadulterated extra virgin olive oil, when stored properly, has a shelf life of up to 3 years! Unfortunately, not all oils are created equal.
- Purchase olive oil in stores that have a high turnover and are likely to replenish their shelves frequently.
- Shop at stores that provide samples of various olive oils along with cubes of bread for dipping so that you can taste the oil before buying.
Maximizing the Flavor of Extra Virgin Olive Oil:
To derive the most healthful benefits from extra virgin olive oil, use it in its most natural state:
- Brush it on bread in place of butter
- Drizzle it on cooked fish and vegetables for added flavor
- Add a tablespoon or two to cooked sauces just before serving
- Use it in salad dressings or for olive oil sauces, such as pesto
- Extra virgin olive oil may be used for low heat cooking. High heat will change the subtle flavor of the oil
Reserve virgin or those labeled "olive oil" for high heat cooking
Georgia Chan Downard has blissfully spent her life in the pursuit and enjoyment of delicious food. She is a food writer, consultant and principal in Reel Cooking Productions, LLP.
via: Foods from Spain news
